Should be checked by an Expert

[Fatfatboy]

I'm having a charging issue on the Beezer. I actually had to call the wife to bring a truck so I could load it up and get back home. I've not had to do that in over twenty years. Kinda took me back to the "good ol' days".
"Hello Babe, I'm just outside of Middle of Nowhere and the bikes not going to make it home."
"Uuummmphhh,,, all right. I'll get the truck".

Of course in the good ol' days that phone call was from a pay phone or in most cases at a strangers house who was kind enough to let you in their house to make a long distance call. Can you see that happening now?

 I guess the only downfall to kickstart only bikes is you don't know the battery is shooting craps until you are out at night and the lights only shoot out a dim yellow beam, or in my case, riding during the day and the bike runs fine for a 20 miles or so and then dies at a stop. After spending 15 minutes looking around for bad connections and broken wires, and not finding anything, the bike would fire back up. I'd ride for two miles and the end of suck bang blow would occur again.

Again, 15 minutes of the bad connection search, she kicks back to life. A reoccurring event of, ride two miles, pull to side of the road, wait 15 minutes, kick her back to life and repeat, incurred for about six miles and one hour. Then she no longer would wake up after the 15 minutes.
Luckily I made it to good parking lot just five miles from home.

After charging the battery over night she fires back up and I get out the multimeter I'm only reading 12.22 volts when she revs up. As a matter of fact the voltage is 12.28 at idle so it goes down with higher revs.
Now I'm new to the British electrical system but I've heard the stories through the years of how they are not perfect but I'm sure there should be more voltage than that coming from the stator. I pull out my Haynes 88 page service and repair manual to get the specs under "Alternator - Checking Output" and it states;
"The output and performance of the alternator fitted to the BSA unit-construction twins can be checked only with specialized test equipment of the multi-meter type. It is unlikely that the average owner will have access to this type of equipment or instructions to use it.,,,,,,,,, If the performance is suspect, the alternator and charging circuit should be checked by a qualified auto-electrical expert."

I guess this just shows how much times have changed. I guess in the late 60's and early 70's us knuckle dragging Neanderthals didn't have access to a multimeter or enough qualified gray matter to figure out how to use one even if we were so happen to find one that one of the Auto Gods happen to leave laying on the floor of a recently serviced Buick.

Now multimeters are a dime a dozen and can be bought just about anywhere except 7-11.
I wonder if the first shade tree mechanic that got their hands on one tried to use it as a hammer?

[Allred]

Fatfatboy wrote

I'm having a charging issue on the Beezer. After charging the battery over night she fires back up and I get out the multimeter I'm only reading 12.22 volts when she revs up. As a matter of fact the voltage is 12.28 at idle so it goes down with higher revs.

So basically what you are reading is the voltage of the freshly charged battery, the bike isn't charging at all. Hence the length of your ride is the life of the battery as it discharges under normal running. Put on the lights and your ride would be even shorter!

If your Beezer were still in original form it would have an ammeter in the headlight unit/nacelle. This would (obviously) show zero when the bike is not running. It would show a large discharge if the lights were turned on while the bike was not running. A slight positive charge when the bike was running. And a brief discharge flicker when the lights were turned on when the bike was running, and then an almost immediate return to a slight positive charge indicated.

It's been a long, long time, but if I remember correctly there are three wires that come from the alternator, two coils of the alternator are activated during regular running, and the other four coils are activated when the lights are turned on.  With a voltmeter you should be able to check the output with the bike running, one wire is ground, there should positive volts on one wire, and an increase on the other. If this is true your alternator is good. If the alternator is good you need to suspect the rectifier and/or Zeiner Diode, make sure they have a good ground. (or "earth" in BSA parlance)  

[motogrady]

Allred wrote

Fatfatboy wrote

I'm having a charging issue on the Beezer. After charging the battery over night she fires back up and I get out the multimeter I'm only reading 12.22 volts when she revs up. As a matter of fact the voltage is 12.28 at idle so it goes down with higher revs.

So basically what you are reading is the voltage of the freshly charged battery, the bike isn't charging at all. Hence the length of your ride is the life of the battery as it discharges under normal running. Put on the lights and your ride would be even shorter!

If your Beezer were still in original form it would have an ammeter in the headlight unit/nacelle. This would (obviously) show zero when the bike is not running. It would show a large discharge if the lights were turned on while the bike was not running. A slight positive charge when the bike was running. And a brief discharge flicker when the lights were turned on when the bike was running, and then an almost immediate return to a slight positive charge indicated.

It's been a long, long time, but if I remember correctly there are three wires that come from the alternator, two coils of the alternator are activated during regular running, and the other four coils are activated when the lights are turned on.  With a voltmeter you should be able to check the output with the bike running, one wire is ground, there should positive volts on one wire, and an increase on the other. If this is true your alternator is good. If the alternator is good you need to suspect the rectifier and/or Zeiner Diode, make sure they have a good ground. (or "earth" in BSA parlance)

Ya, sounds like no charging at all.  Revving higher spark plugs firing more pulling more juice off battery.
I'd check all connections first.  Then Oem out the stator.

Honda's of mine electrics are sketchy also.  Last issue drove me crazy.  Would not charge.  Everything checked out.  Ended up being a burnt connection, in the 4 post molex plug, buried in a rats nest of wires, first connection after the stator.  4 wire nuts, wire strippers, good to go.  

[oldironnow]

Yes to the salvation of wire nuts.

[Fatfatboy]

Allred wrote

If your Beezer were still in original form

 I’m catching myself looking at Craigslist, eBay and Market Place for a unmolested Lightning.
It would be cool to have a stock version and the chopped version


Looks like it’s the rectifier.
I checked the volts on the AC side and was getting 10 volts at idle with a maximum of 25 volts with throttle.
On the DC side I was getting bupkis, nothing, el zippo, big goose egg absolutely nothing.

The rectifier on it is a non-stock item.




I checked with Kieth to see where it came from and showed me a direct replacement on eBay.
It’s 25 bucks so I’ll give it a shot.

I was kinda hoping that it was the alternator so I could justify the cost to switch to a magneto.

[Fatfatboy]

motogrady wrote

 buried in a rats nest of wires,

That is one of the benefits of a chopper, very few wires.

[oldironnow]

WOW!

Justify-ocity!

Something like this?

https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/products/joe-hunt-magneto-bsa-a50-a65-1964-1970-1281

[Fatfatboy]

 I've actually considered the magneto and may go there. I just plunked some money on new fork suspension parts for The Chariot so spending $1,000 on a magneto setup is not in the cards today but maybe later.

I found the rectifier I need for 10 bucks so I'll put it on and if and when it shoots crap again it will be time for an upgraded system that looks freakin killer as well.


Of course thre's always this full on crazy option;



Nitromethane, 800cc, fuel injected beast.

[Allred]

Fatfatboy wrote

I’m catching myself looking at Craigslist, eBay and Market Place for a unmolested Lightning. It would be cool to have a stock version and the chopped version

A '65 Lightning here.........shows some patina but looks very original and cared for, and at a fairly decent price if everything is as the ads says it is.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-BSA-A65-Lightning-Rocket/224291105303?hash=item3438caaa17:g:0tEAAOSwk~Vdp2tl

[Allred]

Fatfatboy wrote

Looks like it’s the rectifier.

Yes, most likely.

The alternator produces AC current so you will not get any DC reading there, and as you are getting plenty of AC reading it looks like the alternator is fine and the most likely culprit is the rectifier.

The rectifier converts AC to DC for the battery and if it is not working you don't have a charging system.

[Fatfatboy]

Allred wrote

Fatfatboy wrote

I’m catching myself looking at Craigslist, eBay and Market Place for a unmolested Lightning. It would be cool to have a stock version and the chopped version

A '65 Lightning here.........shows some patina but looks very original and cared for, and at a fairly decent price if everything is as the ads says it is.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-BSA-A65-Lightning-Rocket/224291105303?hash=item3438caaa17:g:0tEAAOSwk~Vdp2tl

Yeah,,, I’ve spotted that one. Does look like a good’n. The tank needs some attention.
It’s in CA so too far to drive.